The Piazza Navona began as a sports arena constructed by the psychopathic Emperor Domitian, but by the time of the baroque the square had become a hub of high society (Sophia Loren and Silvio Berlusconi still live there). In most other capitals, the places around tourist attractions tend to be over-priced and uninspiring But Rome has some great places in choice locations. For instance, on the Via della Croce an unpretentious wine bar called the Antica Enoteca di Via della Croce serves real meals at fast-food prices – and timescales.CULTURAL AFTERNOONYou could do the obvious, such as the Forum with the Colosseum for afters, but a rather more intimate experience is to content yourself spending the afternoon with a genius. Call ahead on 00 39 06 481 5926.SHOP TILL YOU DROPThe designer names and de luxe prices are concentrated on the Via dei Condotti. For goods and prices that bear some relation to normal life, try central Rome’s longest street, Via del Corso. For the best range of superb clothes at reasonable prices, go to Milan instead.LUNCH ON THE RUNThe funny thing about cafes and restaurants in Rome is that location is no guide to value. If even that is a bit up-market for you, the Fawlty Towers Hostel , Via Magenta 39 (00 39 06 445 4802), goes as low as 30,000 lire (£10) for a night in a four-beddeddorm, or 120,000 lire (£40) for a double room with bathroom.TAKE A RIDEIt is temptingly easy to do the Roman thing – to hire a scooter (eg from Scooters for Rent, Via Cavour 199) – and ridiculously easy to fall off.

As a non-Roman, you will not be fully conversant with the traffic laws nor with the extent to which they are ignored by road-users. But if you are feeling confident about doing battle with the capital’s traffic, go ahead. A one-hour rental costs 18,000 lire (£6) including fuel, while 60,000 lire (£20) buys you 24 hours excluding fuel. The Portoghesi is a well-appointed three-star hotel on Via del Portoghesi, behind Piazza Navona in the centre of the city (00 39 06 686 4231), charging 220,000 lire (£70) single/310,000 lire (£100) double, including breakfast. The Hotel Pomezia at Via dei Chiavari 12 (00 39 06 686 1371) is rather less well-appointed and considerably cheaper; a room this week costs 112,000 lire (£36) single/150,000 lire (£50) double, including breakfast.

This week the following choices reported good availability in February. If you prefer someone to look after your bearings for you, James Hill (00 39 06 6390570) offers a bespoke guiding service.CHECK INAs the year goes on, accommodation will get much tougher to find. Beyond the frenzy of the Piazza dei Cinquecento (a chemically enhanced version of Victoria coach station), Rome unfurls north-west towards the calm of the Borghese Gardens south-west towards the Colosseum and the Roman Forum and west to the heart of the city, wrapped in a fold of the Tiber river, with the Vatican City beyond. The city is linked by good bus services, while a metro system of sorts meanders around in a not-terribly-useful fashion. So much for the airport; once at Termini station the outlook appears brighter. Until 24 February, it is selling a two-night break in a three-star hotel for £185, including flights from Heathrow.GET YOUR BEARINGSTwo thousand years of turmoil have left the place in a mess.

Try asking for the “voucher price” to save £25 on these BA prices. From Fiumicino the fast rail link to Termini station takes 25 minutes and costs 13,000 lire (£4.50). To solve the accommodation problem, you could take advantage of an excellent deal with city break operators Italiatour (01883 621900). The journey from Ciampino to the centre is slow and cumbersome, involving a bus to the last stop of metro line A. On a full-service airline, you can fly to Fiumicino (Rome’s main airport) from Heathrow on Alitalia (020 7602 7111) for £122.40; or British Airways (0345 222111) from Gatwick, Heathrow, Birmingham or Manchester From Manchester, the fare is £142; from Birmingham, £158. That is the number of people expected to visit Italy for Jubilee 2000. This Holy Year continues a tradition that began amid wild rumour and general anarchy in 1300.