The general consensus is not to because you encourage a life of begging rather than of education and employment. The issue is further complicated by the fact that children might not get to keep the money you give them, as it is often filtered straight into the hands of a threatening parent or, in some cases, pimp. And you are adding to the hassles of that country for the next tourist that comes along, as they will inevitably be pestered more ferociously.This view is reinforced by Sue Wheat of the charity Tourism Concern, who advises that “giving money to children who beg often causes more problems than it solves because it distorts the local economics and generates an unhealthy dependency on tourists”. She also recommends holding back from non-monetary donations to children, as “however fun they may seem, some gifts have surprisingly serious effects. There have been,” she adds, “cases of hepatitis spread by infected children blowing up balloons – given to them to play with by Western tourists – and then passing those balloons on to their friends to blow up a bit more.”So, if you decide not to give, what can you do to help these people more productively? Ms Wheat advises giving money to local charities, self- help projects, or donating useful items such as pens to a local school. When booking your trip, you should also look for tour operators who give a certain amount back to relevant charities in the country you will be visiting.Butterfield’s Indian Railway Tours (01262 420569) is one such travel company.

Ashley and Jane Butterfield have lived in India for several years and their tours aim to make clients aware of the realities of life in India and Pakistan. The tours are run on train carriages and, since all meals are cooked on board, any spare food is given away to local people. Some money from each tour is also put towards the Butterfield’s various projects As Ashley explains, “just giving money doesn’t work. We would rather provide food or hospital treatment for particular families”. But he adds: “as tourists, you have to make an instant judgement and, if you want to give, then you should.”Tourism Concern (0171-753 3330) costs pounds 18 to join (pounds 9, unwaged). PEOPLE WERE predictably unsympathetic when I told them I hadn’t seen lions in India “Well, of course you didn’t,” they said scornfully “You were looking on the wrong continent. Lions come from Africa; everyone knows that.”

But there are lions in India, too: Asiatic lions, smaller than their African cousins, and extremely rare.

They once roamed north India and the Middle East, but over-hunting and loss of habitat meant that by 1913, there were only about 20 left in a small part of Gujarat in north-west India. So the local nawab had it declared a national park and now slightly fewer than 300 of the beasts stalk the Sasan Gir Lion Sanctuary in Gir’s forests and grasslands.
I’ve always had a soft spot for cats of any size and savagery. Having seen a tiger on a previous visit to India, I was determined to catch a glimpse of one of the last of the Asiatic lions. My search began at Sasan Gir village, which according to all the guide books was the place to stay when visiting the park.It was too late for the afternoon safari, so I went to the rearing centre to look at baby crocodiles – all piled on top of each other and motionless in the heat. Then to look at the owner’s photo albums full of pictures of lions.

I could hardly wait to see them in the flesh.Later that evening, as I was finishing dinner in the hotel, the night watchman came running in. He’d seen two leopards hunting along the dried- up riverbed beside the hotel, and was frantic for everyone to see them, too We were as quick as we could be, but it was too late. They had vanished, but their kill – a water buffalo – was still there. Now I was even more excited about the next day’s safaris.The following morning I was at the Visitors’ Centre bright and early for my first excursion into the park.