Add the port, orange and lemon juice and bring back to a simmer. Allow to cook for 5 minutes.Put the lemon and orange zest into a small pan of boiling water. Bring back to the boil, strain into a sieve and refresh under cold running water Reserve. Tip the sauce, onions and all, into a food processor together with the mustard. Blend until smooth, then pass through a sieve into a clean saucepan.

Add the orange and lemon zest and gently re-heat but do not boil.Slice the gammon thinly onto the hot plates and spoon over the sauce. Decorate with clumps of sprightly watercress and eat with boiled new potatoes and buttered spinach. Hey ho! said Anthony Rowley.Grilled sausages, mashed potatoes, onion and apple sauces, serves 4For the apple sauce:2 large Bramley apples, peeled and sliced3 tbsp water2 cloves2 tbsp caster sugarscant juice of half a small lemonPut everything into a small pan and cook gently for about 20-25 minutes until the apples have collapsed and the mixture has become a chunky puree; I personally don’t like it too smooth. Pour into a bowl to cool to room temperature.For the mashed potatoes:900g/2lb floury potatoes, peeled and cut into chunkssalt75ml/3fl oz creamy milk75g/3oz butterfreshly ground white pepperTo make the mashed potatoes, boil the potatoes in salted water until cooked Meanwhile, warm together the milk and butter in a small pan.

Drain the potatoes well (dry out in the oven if they seem excessively wet) Pass the potatoes through a mouli-legumes or potato ricer. Beat the potato with a manual or electric hand whisk, adding the milk and butter mixture in a thin stream Season with pepper and nutmeg and check for salt. When all has been added, give the mash a final energetic beating to lighten it.For the onion sauce:200ml/7fl oz milk2 sprigs fresh thyme1 bay leafsalt2 medium onions, peeled and very finely sliced25g/1oz butter1 level tbsp plain flour75ml/3fl oz single creamfreshly grated nutmegpepperHeat together the milk, bay, thyme and a little salt. Simmer for a few minutes, remove from the heat, cover, and allow the flavours to mingle for 10 minutes In another pan, melt the butter and add the onions Cook very gently until completely soft but uncoloured. Stir in the flour and gently cook together for a minute or two. Strain the milk into the onions, stirring continuously until thickened.